Lhakpa Ri 7045m. Expedition
Autumn/Spring
Joint Lhakpa Ri Expedition Fixed Depature
September 30, 2012 / April 05, 2013
Mt. Lhakpa Ri (7045m.) is one of the famous expedition in Tibet. Many
climbers have been attracted these days to summit this beautiful mountan. It divides
the upper east Rombuk and Kharta glacier. It is very close to Mount Everest and
one feels him as equal to be climbed Mount Everest the moment, while reaches on
the top of this mountain.
It was first climb by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest
Reconnaissance in 1921 and he had seen its North Col. Bill Tilman made the second ascent during his Everest reconnaissance in 1936.
The Third ascent was made by French Everest Summiteers Michelle Pelle in 1988.
The Fourth ascent by Ken Mc Connell in 199. The present expedition teams are
also using these same routes as the previous four expedition teams had used in
the past.
The Expedition starts from Kathmandu- Zhangmu-Nyalam-Tingri and Everest Base
Camp (Lhakpa RI Base camp) 5200m. After that you have to spend a few days for
acclimatization. After this base camp, you should start your expedition ahead
towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and
expedition crews. Then you have to take a night’s rest in this middle camp. Continuing
ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at
the height of 6400m.
After this point, you may feel some altitude sickness; and in case of this you
should take a couple of day’s rest there. After that climbing up ahead you
reach almost at the level of East Rombuk Glacier to the Rophu La from where
fantastic views of Makalu & Kanchanjunga are seen. Then you get a good look
of your route up to the Lhakpa Ri.
From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go crossing the Rongbuk
glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier
and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m;
and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the
slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit, the routes are 20 –30
degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the
vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6
climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other
side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way
of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri. From the Lhakpa Ri, a very
beautiful views of above the 8000m. High Mountains are envisioned; and also the
good panoramic views of small mountains down below there can be seen.
After reaching the summits, on your way back you can choose the different route
to get down via Lhasa the capital of old city of Tibet. And this new route may
give you another enthusiastic and charming feeling inside.
Lhakpa Ri Expedition Itinerary |
Hotel/ Lodges/ Camping
25 Days Driving/Trek/Climbing
Grade: Mountaineering
Food: Included except main meals in Kathmandu
Accommodation: 5 Nights Kathmandu, 25 Nights Lodge/Camping
Season: Autumn and Spring
Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu - Transfer to Hotel.
Day 2: Kathmandu (Prepare Expedition)
Day 3: Kathmandu
Day 4: Drive to Kodari - Cross border & Zhangmu
Day 5: Zhangmu - Nyalam
Day 6: Nyalam - Tingri
Day 7: Tingri Acclimatized
Day 8: Tingri - Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 9: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp
Day 10: Lhakpa Ri Base Camp - Middle Camp
Day 11: Middle Camp - ABC Camp
Day 12-24: Climbing period for summit Lhakpa Ri
Day 25: Base camp to Shigatse
Day 26: Shigatse - Gyantse
Day 27: Gyantse - Lhasa
Day 28: Lhasa Sightseeing
Day 29: Lhasa to Kathmandu flight & transfer to Hotel.
Day 30: Kathmandu
Day 31: Final Departure.
| Expenses For Lhakpa Ri 7045m. Expedition: The cost for Lhakapa ri expedition will depend on several different factors. The types of accommodation you prefer in Kathmandu and during the trek to Lhakpa Ri base camp will make a difference to the overall cost (Budget to 5 star accommodations). The mode of transport you prefer will also affect the cost of your adventure trip to Lhakpa Ri , for example prices vary greatly between flying versus private car/van. The size of climbing team as well number of climbing guide and porters required will also affect the total cost of the expedition. For these reasons on the same Tibet expedition program can vary in price quite substantially. |
Tentative Expedition Cost: (Minimum 5 person) Per Person USD 7200.00
Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is USD 3,500.00 (If required)
Expedition Cost includes:
- 5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotel).
- Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews
- Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
- Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner) as well as Shigatse, Ghyntse, Lhasa after expedition
- Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
- Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
- Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from BC to ABC
- Per person's (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the Base camp
- Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp is provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
- Peak permit for Lhakpa Ri
- Tibet Visa & Travel permit
- Liaison officer & Interpreter
- Nepalese crew' insurance
- ABC - Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use
- Satellite phone (Pay call).
- Welcome dinner
Cost does not include:
- Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
- Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
- Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
- Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
- International departure tax.
- Personal Expenses.
- Medical and rescue insurance.
- Personal Climbing equipment.
- Bar bills & Beverage.
- Medicine and first aid expenses
- Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
- Walkie-Talkie.
- Extra yak, Per Yak's USD 150.00 will be charge till to 50 KG load.
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Duty Jeep: US$ 4000.00








